I've now been in Chiang Mai for a full week. The city is very green and beautiful. It has a medieval feel, owing to the fact that its old historic center is surrounded by a moat, as well as the remains of red stone walls with castle-like battlements. I checked out a bicycle from my guest house and rode from the west moat to the east moat in about 10 minutes (I congratulated myself on not dying, seeing as I haven't ridden a bike in 5 years and the traffic goes the opposite way than it does in the US!) The city sprawls beyond the walls but I haven't had enough time to explore it yet beyond going to the "night market," where vendors hold camp all night selling clothes, jewelry, art, and even designer handbags.
The day after we got to the city, we went on a trek into the jungle! The Londoners and myself were joined by others from Spain and Scotland. Our guide first cut us bamboo walking sticks- I was very glad we had these because we immediately charged straight up a mountain! The trails were so choked with vegetation in some areas he had to pull out a machete. It's also monsoon season right now, so the mountains get rain multiple times a day and the trails are perpetually muddy. It didn't take long before my pants were covered in red mud and I could no longer determine the original color of my socks and shoes.
We reached an area where the forest had been cleared to make a rice field. A man and a boy made an offering of chicken on a bamboo shrine to ask the spirits to bring a good harvest (the man then also offered us a bamboo cup of homemade moonshine brewed from rice- I had to pass). Our guide explained that farming used to be the sole livelihood of his people, the Karen hill tribe. Because the rice paddies are usually only fertile for a few years and too small to feed many mouths, the people used to live in family groups and move and resettle often, rebuilding their bamboo homes. Now much of the forests have been claimed by the government as national parks and the people are no longer allowed to move or clear land when they want. They now have to live in large villages and come up with food and crafts to sell at market to get money, which they used to have no need for. In compensation for changing the traditions of hundreds of years, the government gave them solar panels for electricity...
We spent the night in a bamboo lodge next to a family's home on the mountainside. We attempted to watch the sunset, but the clouds rolled in. It was still beautiful regardless. I was reminded of how much I mistakenly equate "comfort" with "necessity;" people are clearly capable of surviving without electricity and toilet paper, and I've been preoccupied about not having TV in my apartment.
In the morning we hiked downhill (mercifully), and swam in a gorgeous waterfall! When we went to ride elephants, the teenager who was "steering" it decided we should trade places and I rode on its neck, grimacing as it walked nearly straight up a cliff. In exchange for my safety, I fed the greedy thing about 20 bananas which he demolished in 20 seconds!
Our last stop was bamboo rafting. I was very concerned because the rafts looked rather flimsy. Hopping aboard, I found out they were actually strong enough to stand on, and joyously committed myself to the recreation. Our group was separated onto two rafts and the guides were both hilarious, picking up floating fruit to try to pelt each other and shouting "Oh My Buddha!" as we went down the rapids. We ended up jumping in the water and swimming to the end, detouring to swing over the river on a tire swing and cannonball back in. I never wanted to leave!
But we had to. The next day, I had to split with my backpacker friends, Tanya and Jason, who I'd been with since day one. If I hadn't met them, I surely wouldn't have had nearly as much fun or felt so content on my first time traveling alone. They went on to Laos to continue their 5 week excursion in Southeast Asia and I moved on to do my teacher training course. Thank you both so much and I hope you're doing great =)
As soon as I arrived at the training facility, it immediately started pouring rain... and didn't stop for 30 hours straight! But even that couldn't obstruct the gorgeous scenery at the site. Upon walking in the gate, I felt like I had entered paradise! The entire place is a garden: bamboo, trees, orchids, and earthy sculptures of elephants everywhere... buildings seemingly added as an afterthought (which is misleading, because they were actually built with great care and love by the owner Clarence, who has a real passion for wood). The dwellings are rugged and charming, all opening outdoors to incorporate nature, and situated around a lake full of large, restless catfish. It will be very good to live in such a beautiful, relaxing place for a month while I deal with the intensity of the course. Wish me luck (and sanity) and as always please keep in touch!
Love,
Niki
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