From being stranded in the mountains and wishing desperately to go home, to deciding to extend my stay in India by one week- arguably a large leap, an event that could only have transpired through the aid of nothing less than miracles (and not only one, but several!)
The first was that the rain, which the forecast predicted would persist for 6-7 days, let up for a significant enough amount of time that we were able to leave on Tuesday morning after all. The second was that my host was still able to take me with her, so I was saved the tribulation of having to hitch-hike down the mountain using the very informal "taxi" system alone. The third was that we were able to have our train tickets booked back to Delhi the same day, a very unusual occurence indeed. And the fourth, the one for which I am most grateful, was that I had a place to stay in Delhi. I had emailed a friend from India, asking for suggestions on hotels there and instead she wrote back that her niece would be expecting a call from me and I would stay in her house. I could not even believe it! I arrived at 5 in the morning on the overnight train (yes I had to take the awful sleeper car again, but this time I was prepared, having brought a towel to sleep on), was able to contract a safe government auto to take me to my destination (the fifth miracle- the government autos were actually in the middle of a strike, thus I was the only person to leave the train station in one that day), and was received into my new host's home with open arms! I was so overjoyed to be treated so warmly and to have made it through my ordeal that I broke down and cried.
Aftering calming down and resting a bit (and taking chai), my host's daughter promptly spirited me away for some shopping therapy. Jyotsana was immediately likeable: sweet, pretty, smart (a doctor at 23!), she treated me as if I were her best friend or long lost sister- genuine warmth and hospitality clearly runs in her family. She assumed the duty of getting me ready for my train journey the following day (another miracle, as I was able to obtain the tickets to see my other friend in Punjab- including the return journey- also at the last minute when I left the mountians). She helped me pick out wrist bangles, anklets, earrings, and sandals, as well as a salwar kameez- a long shirt, flowing pants and a scarf- the traditional dress of Punjab. She also insisted I have my hands painted with mendhi; I was surprised to learn that this indulgence of women is usually executed by men. The artist worked swiftly, flawlessly adorning my hands with the dark burnt umber paste in designs varying from paisleys to peacocks. We returned to the house and waited for the mendhi to dry, the herbal scent envigorating the air as we flipped through their family albums. I also shared photos of my family and friends, and then we enjoyed a delicious meal prepared by Jyotsana (an amazing cook too!) This family made me feel so much like I belonged.
The next afternoon I perpared to travel on my own for the first time since I landed (unless you count taking autos a short-distance in transit to accomodation). Before leaving, the family packed me a lunch of pokora and fruit for the journey. Jyotsana also surprised me by giving me two more curtis (the shirts), yellow and pink, that she had picked out to go with my blue pants. I was again stunned and humbled by this show of affection from someone who barely knew me. Then, I was off. I first had to navigate the metro system, even swapping trains at the interchange station, made much easier by the precise directions given to me by my host. I exited at the train station, found my platform, and soon boarded my coach. This was the second occasion I was shocked upon viewing a train in India, but this time it was a pleasant surprise. I was sure I was viewing the interior of a plane, only this was even more spacious. My seat was large, reclinable, and set in front of a table! I soon understood its necessity as attendants came past with mineral water, and then tea, and then a snack, and then more tea, and then a meal, and then more tea! I couldn't believe it. I was fit to burst when I arrived in Ludhiana, and I hadn't even touched my packed lunch yet!
On the platform, a small entourage greeted me. My friend stood there with her brother, her sister, her sister's two children, her friend from Madison, and her sister's husband's best friend's brother, who was staying with them for the month as their driver. Again, I received a warm welcome and felt immediately assured that I would be content during my stay with them. At the house, I was introduced to her family and ate (again!) Punjabi food is truly wonderful; up until now, I had been enjoying the food I've been having, but it grew to be a little monotonous after awhile- daal (lentil soup), sabjee (stewed vegetables), and roti (flat bread)- and completely vegetarian. I am definitely not a big meat-eater, but chicken is nice every once in awhile. I first tasted Punjabi food when I got back to New Delhi and fortunately I've been eating it ever since... because I am hooked. The colors, varying hues of red, green, and yellow, are a nice change from the standard shade of turmeric. And the taste is amazing- creative combinations of garlic, ginger, chilis, and even cinnamon! Within only two days, my mood was drastically lifted and I felt enthusiastic about carrying on...
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