More "snapshots" from my time in India, continuing where I left off at my friend's home in Punjab...
-Drove three hours in a packed car with my friend's whole family to go to Amritsar to see the Golden Temple, the most holy shrine of the Sikhs. This was a pilgrimage for them, and I felt very honored that my involvement was welcome. We covered our heads and walked across a long marble dais flanked on both sides by gardens. In front of a gate, we came to a depression in the floor that contained water, which we used to wash our hands and our feet. We each approached the opening in the wall, touching our right hand to our forehead and then the threshold, careful to step over it, a customary acknowledgment of the sanctity of the place. The sun shone on the white marble walkway and buildings, drenching the entire complex in light. A reverent aura permeated the atmosphere, making the absence of ambient noise seem louder than the quiet voices singing in the distance. Sounds of water also occasionally slipped in, adding to the false silence, lapping against the marble steps and swishing over devotees’ bodies. I was surprised that humans had managed to contain so much water, as the lake was much bigger than I would have expected to be in the interior of a plaza. The gilded temple rose out of the water, appearing to float on top. Indeed it even seemed like we had to walk across the water to go inside- volunteers did their spiritual duty by perpetually pouring the sacred water over the marble on the bridge. We touched the threshold once again and stepped over into the core of the temple. Prayers were being sung, accompanied by gentle instruments, the music echoing upwards over the ornate paintings on the walls.
-Piled back in the car and drove another 40 minutes to the border... of India and Pakistan. Watched a bizarre ceremony between the border guards of the two countries. Seats rose high in the air to accommodate the many guests who came to contribute to the patriotic cheering. A trumpet sounded; the soldiers marched and threw swords in the air on either side of the gate. Then slowly the flags were lowered and taken down on each respective side, a symbol of the "closing" of the border for the evening (the gates actually remained closed almost the entire time). Some day, I hope to be able to sit and watch the same ceremony again... from the other side in Pakistan.
-A few days later, woke up at the crack of dawn (actually earlier) in order to start our 5-hour drive to McLeod Ganj, the current residence of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government in exile. We drove a few hours over the plains, then abruptly the mountains began to rise up. At a certain point in our ascent, troops of monkeys suddenly began to materialize. The children were thrilled to be able to throw bread to them as they casually approached our car, completely certain that we would slow down and not hit them. We had almost reached our destination when we were pulled over by the police (and by this, I mean we were waved over in a way that almost seemed like a mere suggestion). Apparently, the police routinely stop cars with out-of-state license plates- not as a matter of protocol, but a matter of lining their wallets. Our driver came back saying that we had to pay 500 rupees because they had decided our registration papers were fake. Our disappointment intensified when the officer approached our car; after taking note that there were two white foreigners present in the vehicle, he declared that the fine was actually 2,000 rupees! No one was in a good mood as we disembarked and trailed into the temple complex. I was able to push the experience out of my mind so as not to ruin that which was at hand. I wandered around, watching the maroon-robed monks debate Buddhist teachings, a very lively scene, the young monks winding up dramatically and sealing each point of argument with an expressive stamp of their foot and a fist in their hand, but in a good-natured way, smiling the entire time. I followed practitioners clockwise around the temple, listening to my heart and spinning the prayer wheels which contain the Mantra of Chenrezig (Tibetan name for Avalokiteshvara, the Buddha of Compassion)- “Om Mani Padme Hum”, written on hundreds of tiny pieces of paper.
-The thing I was most anticipating (and the primary reason for why I extended my ticket), almost didn't happen. Originally I was supposed to go to Agra with Jyotsana on an AC bus after arriving back in Delhi. However, the bus was booked and she ended up having to see patients that day anyway, but I didn't find out until the day before I left Punjab and by the time I was able to check into train tickets there was already a wait-list. I was very distraught thinking that I would miss out on this opportunity, so I decided I would try to figure something out when I got to Delhi, even if it meant going over my budget (although I was hoping fervently this would not be the case). I left on an early-morning train out of Ludhiana, waking up my friend to say goodbye. She accompanied me to the train station to see me off. I felt sad saying goodbye, she and her family had helped me out so much by taking me in and making sure I had good memories of India.
On the train ride, I sat next to a gentleman who happened to mention that there is a foreigner quota for all trains (another miracle!) We got off the train and he directed me to the International Tourist Bureau, where I sat in a chair and had a leisurely conversation with someone to make my reservation, instead of the push-or-be-pushed of a completely non-linear 'queue' around the counter, and I received a round-trip ticket for the next day! I proceeded back to Jyotsana's house in Delhi, deftly maneuvering through the metro system once more. Again, the family gave me a warm welcome. Jyotsana's mother explained how she had worried about me the whole time. I've probably said this before, but it needs to be said again: I feel so blessed to keep meeting and spending time with great people while I've been away. It helps a lot to ease the homesickness I feel for my family and friends. I'm still very glad that I've come, even though it's been challenging. Every day I learn something new about myself. I learn to focus on what I CAN do as opposed to what I can't, and I've already had plenty of surprises in this area. Things I've never thought about before, like the confidence to strike up a conversation with a stranger, are now all-important- not only for survival, but for sanity!
This again came in handy on the way to Agra, as I was able to share an auto-rickshaw around the city with another traveler I met on the train. We went straight to the monument we were most looking forward to see. We were dropped off and walked down a long winding path through gardens (more monkeys!), bought our tickets at a red wall and walked through the gate. We had to get to the middle of the square before we could see anything. A large elaborate gate obscured our view. We then walked through and it slowly materialized in front of us. The Taj Mahal! It really was amazing. A guide took us on a tour and elaborated on the purpose, construction, and art of the edifice. I'll save that for when you go there =)
After seeing Akbar's tomb (I liked this as much as the Taj Mahal, due to the large grounds where the deer and antelope play, literally), we boarded the train to head back to Delhi. We happened to have the same seats again, so we were able to share a laugh at the fact that 15 people were crowded into the space where 8 should have been. We parted ways and I headed back to stay with my host family one more day. I was able to take a bicycle rickshaw by myself (not my favorite means of transportation- it feels inhumane to have another person use their body to pull your weight) and I went to the District Central shopping center to get a few parting gifts for my gracious host family. It was very sad to leave them once again, but we promised to keep in touch.
Even though there were some lows in India, including the one the dissolved my confidence and made me unable to stay for as long as planned, I mostly remember the highs. I know I will definitely go back. I will do some things differently, but if I had done those this time around, I wouldn't have had the experience I did, which was very important to teach me that I have the power to deal with changes (no matter how abrupt or uncomfortable) and that I will continue to develop myself in this way. India really pushed me, and I'm glad I found how to push back.
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