Eat Up, Chow Down, Dig In. A Culinary Journey Across Japan

As published on October 19, 2012 in Living in Japan: Culture, Food & Dining for Gaijinpot.com

When a Japanese person asks about your vacation, the question “Where did you go?” is inevitably followed up by, “What did you eat?” It is even more likely that upon learning the destination, the next question will be “Did you try [_____]?” as the Japanese seem to acquire early in childhood the knowledge of the specific specialties of each region in their country.

In Japan, food is an important calculation to consider in the equation of whether you had a good time on vacation or not. But how many different kinds of Japanese food are there, really? Actually quite a lot. After visiting many places and trying the local dishes, I have come to place more value on eating while traveling… or even traveling to eat.

From west to east, here is a tour of some popular destinations and the must-eat cuisine offered there:

Hiroshima- Okonomiyaki

Head to Hiroshima to partake of a dish you’ve surely never seen the likes of before. First described to me as “Japanese pizza”, and later – though not more accurately- as “kind of an omelet,” okonomiyaki is a unique, eclectic mixture of most of the food groups, fried on a hot iron surface. Ingredients usually include a flour-based batter, shredded cabbage, pork, egg, and either soba or udon noodles. These are piled high in layers and get packed down as they are grilled. When it’s ready to be served, chop it into wedges with the accompanying spatulas and slather it with tangy Worchestershire-like sauce. (Then avoid using the spatula to shovel it voraciously into your mouth.)

Osaka- Takoyaki

Octopus balls. Sound appetizing? Bits of soft, boiled tentacles, green onions and pickled ginger are dunked into batter and fried. The balls are quickly and expertly turned in the specialized takoyaki pan to administer an even, golden-brown glow. They are then topped with special sauce, mayonnaise and dried fish flakes. The ingredients blend together nicely – the piquancy of the ginger and sauce, offset by the milder components, provides a pleasant flavor. Still not convinced? Since takoyaki is inexpensive, you can afford to be a bit adventurous and try this tasty treat.

Kyoto- Matcha

The region around Kyoto is famous for growing tea – it has been cultivated there for over a thousand years. Gastronomes will be glad to know that Kyoto also dishes up its matcha (powdered green tea) into desserts. Many shops sell green tea ice cream; it’s a great reward for all the walking you’ve surely been doing around the temples. And because matcha has a distinctive, somewhat bitter flavor, it’s good to try it at least twice to fully appreciate the taste. For your second dose, get to a bakery and grab a matcha cream puff. The sweet, flaky pastry complements a creamy matcha filling, all for the sake of your epicurean enjoyment!

Nagoya- Tebasaki

Nagoya is a common stopover en route to other destinations, but why not enjoy it as an eatoveras well. Try tebasaki: fried chicken wings flavored in a variety of different ways, from mild to spicy to salty. These wings may not be as massive and meaty as you might be accustomed to in your country of origin, but the quality of the chicken, coupled with the savory seasonings, is quite palatable. The price is right as well. Head to Yamachan or Furaibo, the two establishments serving up the dish, and for only a small fee, sink your teeth into some of these delicious wings.

Takayama- Hida Beef

Is this beef really more special than other kinds of beef? Yes, it is. Hida beef is so tender it actually melts in your mouth. The genetics of the cows and the conditions they are raised in are apparently the perfect formula for only the choicest meat. Each cut is either Grade A or B quality beef and contains a glorious mess of marbling. Grab a cheap skewer in the old town to get a taste, or even better, fork out some more cash and sample any of the creative plates that have been concocted by the various restaurants in Takayama. It is next to impossible not to enjoy this delicacy.

Tokyo- Sushi

Of course, I can’t leave out sushi. For the freshest of the fresh, head to Tsukiji market early in the morning, when the day’s catch is first brought in. Because it wouldn’t be civilized to just help yourself to the sea creatures you see lying before you en masse, sit down instead at one of the eateries offering set menus. For a full-on experience, order the morning special – everything from sea urchin to salmon roe, yellowtail to grilled eel. I opted for a sampling of 5 different kinds of tuna. The selection turned out to be superb, and strangely satisfying as a breakfast!

A great way to transport yourself to and from these culinary destinations is to fly All Nippon Airways (ANA), which is currently offering domestic flights for only 10,500 yen to tourists. See their website for more detailshttps://www.ana-cooljapan.com/

Onsen for Dummies

As published October 3, 2012 for Living in Japan: Travel for Gaijinpot.com

In the spirit of “When in Rome,” a visit to Japan should definitely include one of the Japanese people’s greatest pastimes: a trip to onsen. The tradition of bathing in hot springs is more than a thousand years old and is deeply ingrained into the Japanese psyche. Melting into a mineral bath is seen as a relaxing, restorative experience, and I would have to strongly agree that it is.

The idea of stripping down with your friends/co-workers/relatives doesn’t seem to bother anyone here- and yes, you will be naked (most onsen have separate areas for men and women). For foreigners, such an excursion may seem daunting, especially if you don’t have an onsen veteran to guide you. But not to worry- having myself progressed from onsen amateur to enthusiast in just a short time, I am happy to walk you through the procedure so that you may enjoy your first onsen experience in comfort.

Before You Go

If you have tattoos, make sure you check beforehand to see whether you will be allowed to bathe. In Japan, tattoos are often associated with the yakuza (mafia/gangs), so flat-out bans are common for some onsen, even for foreigners. That being said, I haven’t personally come across one yet that denied me access when I asked if tattoos were ok.

When You Arrive

There is usually a ticket machine where you purchase your bath ticket, as well as any towels you may need (you are welcome to bring your own). You will need at least one small- to medium-sized towel to dry and cover some of yourself with. Enter the bath area according to your gender. Then find a bin or locker to put your things in. If it’s a locker, you will get to keep the key on your wrist; it’s fine to take it in the water with you.

At this point, you’ll go ahead and remove your clothes, remembering to take your small towel with you. It’s good to make a show of trying to preserve your modesty by covering up at least a bit with the towel, although ultimately there is no point. The experience of disregarding your own and everyone else’s nudity is actually quite freeing – it’s a chance to unburden yourself not only of clothes, but also of body image issues and uptight cultural values.

Before You Dip

Get in line to give yourself a THOROUGH scrub-down. That is not an exaggeration. Most people spend lots of time making sure they are spotless before entering the bath, which must be shared with so many other people. When it’s your turn, sit down on the stool and give yourself a good dousing with the shower. Shampoo and body soap are generally provided, but if you have some special regimen feel free to bring your own products. When you’re sure that you’re cleaner than you have ever been before, grab your towel and head to the bath.

Sublime Soaking

Cover up a bit with the towel until you get in the water. Make sure to tie your hair back if it’s long. Enter slowly in order to adjust to the temperature, as well as not to splash anyone. Fold the towel up and plop it on your head. The only thing left to do: relax!

Wrapping Up

When you’re ready to get out (hopefully after sitting a good while and thinking about absolutely nothing), take the towel off your head and again perform the illusion of modesty, being careful not to slip as you get out. Before you wander back into the changing area, you must make sure you are completely dry – apparently even one tiny drop of water could cause a catastrophe. Then grab your clothes out of your locker, put them on, and wait in line if you would like to use the hair-dryer or mirror. If you rented a towel, be sure to deposit it before you leave.

From here you could head out of the onsen directly, but why not partake of even more relaxation by sitting at the little floor tables in the hall and enjoying some refreshments. Tea, water and vending machine delicacies are likely to be on hand. Once you feel fully revitalized you can go back into the wider chaotic world, but remember to carry with you a piece of your newfound peace!

Recommended “Hotspots”

It is incredibly difficult to find a consensus as to the best onsen in Japan. There are simply hundreds to choose from. Many well-known onsen are only a short distance from some of the major destinations in Japan. From Tokyo, try Hakone – an old classic in a beautiful natural setting. From Nagoya, the quaint river town of Gero is reachable. From Osaka, don’t miss Shirahama – complete with white-sand beaches. And from Kyoto, go to Kinosaki, along the gorgeous Sea of Japan coast.

Currently, All Nippon Airways (ANA) is offering flights to tourists for only ¥10,500 to all domestic destinations. Take advantage to reach the onsen of your dreams. Visit their website https://www.ana-cooljapan.com/#/japanfare for more details. Enjoy your bath.

Walk and Talk: Osaka

As published September 5, 2012 in Living In Japan: Travel for Gaijinpot.com

Has anyone ever sung you the praises of a destination by insisting on all the great conversations you would have there? The fast-paced life of Osaka doesn’t mean that locals don’t have time to stop and chat. Osakans are renowned among the Japanese for being very friendly and outgoing, as well as for possessing a good sense of humor. Walking through a subway station here may feel like you’ve entered a human asteroid belt, with beings flying at you from all angles, but slow down for a moment and invariably you will make some kind of connection.

Stand looking lost at the entrance to the subway and in half a second or less someone will offer to help you. Ask your waiter if he can point you in the direction you’re trying to go, and he’ll come out of the back with a Google map printed out for you. Have a heart-to-heart with your masseuse about everything from what your plans are while you’re in Japan to your greatest aspirations in life. Then ask for her recommendation about what’s worth checking out in the area.

There is a myriad of things to do and see in Osaka, and walking is a great way to take it all in. Head to Shinsaibashi Station to begin a jaunt that will not fail to provide plenty of amusement. As an avid watcher of people, I was thrilled to witness the crowd’s characteristics changing every few blocks. Walking south on the main stretch, you’ll observe impeccably dressed men and women on their way to high-end stores such as Chanel and Prada. Turn right at the Mac store and walk straight into Amerika Mura, a shopping area catering to diverse fashion senses. It’s full of used clothing stores, hippy world-import boutiques, punk/goth shops with plenty of skull-themed wearables, and the area’s namesake: retailers of American hip-hop fashion from the early 90’s.

Next, carry on to Dōtonbori. Approaching the bridge, its flashiness is sure to catch your eye. Many in this area are tourists, snapping photos on the fly, trying to capture the circus of visual stimuli: everything from arcades enticing you with their bright lights to larger-than-life animal replicas advertising the kinds of edible critters you can feast upon at different restaurants (namely crab, octopus, and blowfish). You can spend lots of time here gawking.

When you want to relax (or you’ve exhausted your ability for clear eyesight) head south to Ebisuchō. This is the Shinsekai area, presided over by the aging, neon Tsūtenkaku Tower. It’s a bit rough around the edges, but this district has loads of cheap and fun bars and restaurants, not the least of which is a very unique setup called Nocosarejima. The owner, Noco, and her partner, Gandhi, are well worth meeting. It’s a pleasure to sit down with them and hear about this uncommon establishment.

The bar/restaurant is named after the first episode of a 1970’s TV anime series called “Future Boy Conan,” one of the least well-known works of very well-known director Hayao Miyazaki (Spirited Away). “Nocosarejima” means “Remnant Island,” a key feature of the show’s plot about the adventures of a boy and his grandfather surviving on an isolated island after World War III. The restaurant itself seems like an oasis, providing a relaxed, fun atmosphere in the midst of the city’s hustle and bustle. The décor is a mash-up of cultural trinkets from all of the countries that Noco has been to throughout her travels in Asia. The selection is purposeful; Noco intended it to foster a chill vibe similar to the tropical Japanese island of Okinawa, a place very close to her heart.

As for the menu, dishes from all over Asia are featured, as Noco also learned how to cook local specialties during her travels. Seasonal items are on offer as well- this summer, two specials are umibudo, a kind of soft seaweed from Okinawa that has been dubbed “sea grapes,” along with awamori, a rice liquor also from Okinawa (I recommend the Thai green curry too). Noco’s attachment to Okinawa has also led her to use the bar as a means of educating customers on the importance of preserving the natural and cultural heritage of the island.

At Noco’s, a spontaneous musical performance is quite likely to develop, as Gandhi keeps several guitars in house and is keen to play for, or with, customers. His friend may even stop by to join in with a traditional Okinawan sanshin. Overall, Nocosarejima is a great way to finish a long day of walking and talking in vibrant, never disappointing, Osaka.

  

*Right now, All Nippon Airways (ANA) is offering tourists the opportunity to fly domestic to any destination in the country, including Osaka, for only ¥10,500. Check out the website for more details http://www.ana.co.jp/wws/us/e/wws_common/promotion/experience_jp/

Seishun 18: Your Own Japan Rail Odyssey

As published September 26, 2012 in Living in Japan: Travel for Gaijinpot.com 

Seishun 18: Your Own Japan Rail Odyssey

There’s still time left to grab one of the best transportation deals in Japan! Imagine yourself whirring along on a train through the countryside, contemplating the following images: beautiful white cranes landing in dazzling green rice fields, forested mountains that reveal more and more of themselves as the morning mist rises, rocky formations breaking through crashing blue waves along the craggy sea coast. Train journeys in Japan are simply incredible- guaranteed.

And at the moment, they’re even more affordable! Seishun 18 is a ticket offered by JR that allows you to ride as much as you can in a day, on five separate occasions. It costs ¥11,500- well worth it, as you would most likely quickly spend that amount on just a few trips on the rail network.

For example, I recently came back to Nagoya from Osaka and decided to stop off at Nara to see the many World Heritage Sites it has to offer. This detour easily exceeded the ¥2,300 per day value of the ticket. On my recent voyage across western Japan, I went to 9 different cities in a week using Seishun 18- I definitely saved tens of thousands of yen!

You can ride as far as you want in a day, as well as go in and out of the system as many times necessary. You can also use the ticket with other people, as long as you’re traveling together. Say you want to go on a day trip with two friends- this requires three stamps on one ticket, and you will still have two stamps left over to use later. Simply bring your ticket to the counter at the gate, receive your stamp, and you’re off on an adventure! All subsequent exits and entries require only a simple showing of that day’s stamp to the ticket taker.

There are some restrictions. You can’t ride private rail networks so make sure your destination is accessible by local JR lines; Shinkansen (bullet train), Express, and Limited Express trains are also excluded. A good way to plan this trip is to use http://www.hyperdia.com/ which allows you to filter those options out of your timetable search. Be aware of time when you’re making a transfer- plan ahead if you will need to quickly hop from one train to the next, including making the necessary pit stops.

The last day to buy this ticket is August 31, and its validity expires after September 10. The next available period is during the winter- you’ll be able to purchase it from December 1-31, to be used from December 10- January 10. Just go to any JR ticket counter and ask for “Jyu Hachi Kippu.” Visit this website for more details: http://www.jreast.co.jp/e/pass/seishun18.html

One of the best benefits of riding the local lines is that these slow trains often take you through the beautiful landscape of oft-unseen rural Japan. A few key items to bring: a camera, snacks (there are drink vending machines on most platforms though too, as well as conbinis in many stations), a sweater for cold cars/a fan for hot ones, coins (a good number of stations have lockers for you to temporarily stash a bag), toilet tissue (always a good idea), something to read or do, and patience. This last one is important, as you never know when one of the trains will be incredibly crowded, or you’ll get slightly lost, or your train will be delayed or even canceled- although in this country, renowned the world over for convenience and efficiency, the chances of that are rare.

Armed with this information, along with some good old excitement and determination, you are now ready to begin your own rail odyssey in Japan! Go with the flow and everything will be zen. Happy travels! Ganbatte!