Journeys in Japan!

Since moving back from Thailand nearly 7 months ago, I was living at home in Wisconsin. I got really busy serving at a restaurant (Olive Garden) pretty much everyday, but it helped me save up for my move- I didn't even have much time between quitting that job and leaving the country... 

So now I'm in Japan! I've now been here for nearly a month now and it seems I've done nothing but training and work- it's been pretty intense. I meant to write long ago but only just now have I felt like I've had time to breathe. I'm teaching English here in a city called Nagoya. It's the third largest metropolitan area in Japan- Toyota headquarters is here. The city is very centrally located in Japan, about halfway between Tokyo and Osaka, which should allow me to do a lot of traveling.

On the first day I arrived, I was picked up at the airport by my trainer and then taken to my apartment by my manager. All of the appliances are in Japanese, and the trash/recycling system here is super difficult to understand- it's all a bit overwhelming. The apartment was also shockingly tiny, but after about a day I got used to it and now feel quite cozy. The bed is simply a 2-inch thick mat on the floor; I also have a small floor table.

My work schedule has been crazy, but the people here make it so much better. In the first week, I was given a welcome party at an izakaya- a Japanese style pub where food comes second to drinks and everyone sits on mats on the floor. My co-workers are incredibly helpful and friendly, and the students are a fun bunch as well. I had brought some cheese curds from Wisconsin for us all to enjoy- they were quickly eaten. My good friend Emi, who I met in Bangkok, is from the nearby city of Ichinomiya, so I've been able to meet up with her on the weekends as well. Not only is it great to have a friend here, but I also have a translator; which is extremely useful considering hardly any English is actually spoken or written here.

The day after I arrived, I dragged my jetlagged self out of bed and went with Emi to Meijo Park, home of Nagoya Castle (yes, this city has a castle), to partake in the pastime of hanami: flower-viewing. The cherry blossoms were in full bloom when I arrived, which is lucky considering the short time they are around for. The white and pink buds spread out over the entire park, transforming it into a fragrant impressionist painting. It still feels like a dream- I can't believe this is my new home!

Furry Fury: When Rats Attack!

Police Report- Bangkok

Date: Saturday, June 4, 2011

Time: approx. 8:30pm

The victim was walking on the sidewalk with friends towards their residence. From a distance on the same sidewalk, the group took note of several rats, which had been temporarily displaced from their hiding places by the monsoon rains. Suddenly and without provocation, the victim was attacked.

It happened extremely fast- victim stated that the event transpired “in a blur”. She first felt a mass of wet fur and claws on her foot, and when she looked down she was able to catch a quick glimpse of the attacker before he fled the scene. The victim provided the following description: approx. 11” long, (16’’ including tail), brownish-blackish fur, weighing approx. 4-5 lbs (“a chunker”). One friend was also present to bear witness, while the other was up ahead, about to enter a convenience store. Both the victim and the witness stood screaming, paralyzed by shock. The other could only hear the screams of the two women but could not decipher the reason as to their cause.

When the victim and witness had “snapped out of it”, they sprinted into the convenience store and devolved into hysterics. That was when the witness noticed blood on the victim’s foot. Upon processing this information, the victim started to cry. The manager of the convenience store quickly calmed her down by bringing her alcohol and iodine to clean the wound immediately. She was then able to see that the scratches were quite small.

Due to the traumatic nature of the event, the victim felt it appropriate to first have a drink and then worry about whether she should go to the hospital. (Let the record state that this is a fact related about the victim’s mindset and not a character judgment.) She admitted she was concerned that she may need medical treatment because of the risk of disease; “after all, rats do play in the sewer.” However, as the wound was not serious, and because she was aware that the worst pathogens could only be spread through saliva, she decided that she could wait and go to the hospital the next day.

In the morning, the victim went to the hospital near her home. Her doctor informed her that she would need to take an oral antibiotic… and also undergo a series of rabies shots! The treatment lasted a month, for a total of five injections. Luckily, most of the medical fees were covered by insurance. The victim has filed charges against the suspect, pending his capture.

*It has been rumored that the culprit was apprehended by authorities but was successful in paying them off. This can neither be confirmed nor denied. BPD declined to comment. 

Family Thai-m ^_^

Spending the “winter” in Bangkok has been surreal. From taking a walking photo-tour of all the strange and extravagant holiday decorations and light displays around the city (the Thais love their festivals!) to zealously celebrating my team’s big win from halfway across the world (GO PACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!), I feel that the meaning of the phrase “never in my wildest dreams” is beginning to diminish for me a bit. Certainly the best part of the winter here though was the arrival of the premier customers of Come Visit Your Long-lost Globe-trotting Daughter/Sister Tours, Inc. =)

-I welcomed my guests on the first of February- my dad and my sister had arrived in Bangkok! I met them at their hotel after my shift finished at work and immediately whisked them away to my favorite Thai restaurant by Victory Monument, the location of which has been passed down from teacher to teacher at my school. As we entered the alley and strode into the eclectic teak-paneled diner, the waitress recognized me and asked me if I would like my usual drink, a bottled beverage that tastes like a mixture of red wine and coke and intriguingly named Spy. I then proceeded to order for my family a splendid journey through the world of my adopted country’s cuisine, speaking only in Thai (complete with some special instructions about specific ingredients and degree of spiciness!). The language is still difficult for me, but if there are two things I had to learn quickly it was directions and food. Spicy green papaya salad with lime and peanuts, spicy ground-pork salad with lime and mint, spicy coconut soup with chicken and lemongrass, (do I need to mention that Thais LOVE spicy food?) stir-fried chicken with vegetables and cashews, pineapple fried rice… we thoroughly enjoyed the feast, my dad proclaiming happily “There’s so many different flavors!”

-The next day we took a tour of Bangkok, via every form of transportation imaginable! We took the Skytrain to the river and hopped on a taxi boat upstream to Wat Arun- the “Temple of the Dawn.” We climbed the ultra steep stairs to the top, and looked out over the sprawling expanse of the city. Upon our descent, my sister immediately spied a stand selling coconuts; she devoured every last bit of the sweet juice and flesh in a state of delirious happiness. We crossed the river again to go to Wat Pho, home of the massive golden reclining Buddha that takes up the entire interior of the temple. The day had grown extremely hot and we no longer had energy to make it to the next temple, Wat Pra Kaew, which was not that big of a let-down for me, seeing as I was not particularly looking forward to seeing my old friend the Emerald Buddha again after what happened last time (see previous post).

-Early the next morning we woke up to start a 4-hour road-trip to an island southeast of Bangkok. Instead of taking a bus or taxi like I had been planning, we would be getting a ride from the brother of one of my students! My student had said that they had business near that area and we could ride in the company van, but his brother actually arrived in his personal car, leaving us to speculate about whether he did indeed have business to do or not. Because Sun didn’t speak much English we weren’t able to communicate much more than the limited Thai phrases I knew. When we arrived he refused to accept any money for gas, and concerned, I called my student… who assured that it was a gift for my family! In a state of incredulity I then spoke to a Thai friend who explained that this help for a teacher was not uncommon in Thailand, as “ajarn” is a well-respected profession and my student would gain much merit in assisting us. We couldn’t believe it! We decided on the way back we would buy Sun a bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label whiskey, a popular choice of beverage here… still not enough to return the great favor.

After a 20-minute ferry ride from the pier, we arrived in island paradise. Our hotel was a series of rooms in round white towers connected to each other by wooden bridges over a thick tangle of tropical foliage. We did a lot during our 3-day stay, but it was surprisingly relaxing for a Sauer family vacation =) We took a half-day snorkeling trip, stopping at different reefs and an island to see bright colorful fish (my sister was too happy to step on dry land, as she had gotten motion sick on the speed boat). My dad and I got to take a kayak out from our hotel and paddle up a little inlet to the beach. We also took an elephant trek, riding through the jungle on movable gray mountains; Megan had her own elephant and both her and my dad got to take turns “steering” as the guide walked alongside! I never dreamed I would spend any birthday doing such cool activities in such a beautiful place (in such an amazing country!)

-Six days was too short for my Dad to be here but I’m really glad he came. Hopefully he might have the chance to come out again and to bring my mom! My sister settled in and got ready to spend two more weeks in this chaotic mishmash of a city. While I was at work, she set herself to exploring. She made it to some destinations I still have never been to! She even went up to Chiang Mai (the city I remember so fondly from my previous travels) alone- her first solo backpacking adventure! We also did some shorter excursions together out from the city- a day trip to Ayutthaya to see the ancient temples and an overnight trip to Khao Yai National Park so she could trek through the jungle to see wild elephants (and I could lay by the pool and absorb the vitamin D I’d been missing in pollution-shrouded Bangkok).

I really enjoyed the time I got to spend with my family and felt their absence immediately and acutely when they left. It was also difficult to talk to my mom and other sister back home while they were here. Now I’m on my own again, missing everyone back home all the more, but their visit recharged my batteries. I have a renewed energy and enthusiasm for being here. I even bought a guitar to teach myself to play! Now that I’ve passed the 6-month mark and the end is in sight, I want to make sure I do all that I had planned when I first arrived.

I miss you all and continue to keep me updated about what’s happening in your lives!

***One special note I wanted to make: the earthquake and tsunami in Japan have had a deep effect on many here- especially on my students, many of whom are Japanese. If you could please consider donating to the relief fund through the Red Cross or any other charity it would be extremely helpful and much appreciated by them and their families
Donate to Red Cross- Japan Earthquake and Pacific Tsunami Relief Fund

White Sand Christmas

I have now been in Thailand for over 6 months. This is the longest I’ve ever been away from home, as my previous travels ended at 5 months to the day. The past few have gone by in a blur- Christmas and New Year came and went, and I spent January anticipating the arrival of my first two visitors! Anyway, this is what I’ve been doing =)

-Christmas Eve happened to be my day-off (which was lucky because I would have otherwise had to work). My friends called me and asked me to make egg-nog, but never having attempted that before and not being a fan of eggs in general, I decided to make coquito instead: a Christmastime drink from Puerto Rico made from coconut, milk, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg… oh and I can’t forget the rum ;) I brought it to work and served a bit as some of the teachers finished their shifts. Verdict: they loved it! We stopped at the Four Seasons and had a drink as well while listening to Christmas songs played by a string quartet and then later sung by an accapella choir. A funky Santa wearing giant green-rimmed sunglasses sauntered around the room, posing for pictures. Later, we went to another friend's apartment to hang out by the rooftop pool; we stayed until 4am mostly just because we wanted to indulge in the fact that none of us had to work the next day.

-The next morning we all went to Bourbon Street, a New Orleans-inspired restaurant that had the biggest mash-up of food I’ve ever seen: everything from traditional English roasts and desserts to spicy Cajun seafood dishes. I definitely got my money’s worth, leaving the table feeling full and exhausted. I then went to another friend’s house to watch movies, and finally, we all managed to un-mold ourselves from our chairs yet AGAIN to eat a not-so-small Italian meal. It was very strange not being with my family- it didn’t really feel that similar to any holiday in my memory. My consolation was to speak with them all on Skype, using the video camera to see all their smiling faces and receive their well-wishes. If it weren’t for technology I seriously don’t know whether I could live abroad!

-A few days later I boarded an overnight bus and then a ferry to go to Koh Phangan, an island in the south of Thailand, best known for its out-of-control Full Moon parties. I had been there as a backpacker before, although back then I had chosen to stay on the opposite side of the island to avoid the insanity of Haad Rin beach. This time I would be venturing straight into the thick of it but remained confident that I would be able to handle it in the company of my friends. The other teachers and I had rented out all of the bungalows at one resort, and we quickly made it into our own, stacking coolers and food around the picnic table in the sand, alternately swimming in the ocean and playing cards, strolling the grounds to browse the various cement plant-holders that freely dispensed timeless and clever (if not grammatically or orthographically correct) advice in the form of decorative inscriptions written in seashells.  At night we would all jump in a sawngthaew- a pickup truck with two parallel benches and a steel frame covered in canvas to form a roof over the passengers’ heads- and hold on tight as we rode to the Full Moon beach.

The way to Haad Rin is treacherous, the drivers constantly switching gears to urge their trucks up and down the steep hills, brakes squealing loudly, as if trying to make it “just one more time”. The first trip was on New Year’s Eve. The signs that we were almost there couldn’t have been more obvious: masses of party-goers in bright colors and neon body-paint carrying plastic beach buckets (the kind used by children the world-over to make sandcastles with) but filled not with fine, granulated particles the ocean has methodically polished for thousands of years and deposited on shore, but with ice, liquor, and mixers; essentially a giant cocktail. I refused to touch a drop of it, mostly because I felt I needed my senses to deal with the intense overstimulation that is a Full Moon Party.

The beach is a curve of about a half-mile, and every single inch of it was filled with bass-pounding clubs, fire-twirling performers, and glow-stick adorned, fist-pumping twenty-somethings in the midst of what had to be the biggest rave in the world (having never been to a rave, I guess I can only assume the similarity). One particular bar, the aptly named Mushroom Mountain, is perched on the side of the cliff so that one has to walk up a steep stone pathway to reach it and the “special” cocktails it doles out. This, combined with the proximity of swelling tides and burning towers that read “Happy New Year”- not to mention the perilous roads to get there- had us counting the ways it must be possible for a wasted reveler to win a Darwin Award* on that island. I took it all in, stayed to wish my friends a happy New Year, and turned around and went back to my bungalow (I’m sure with mouth still agape) to sleep and process what I had just witnessed. The next day it had calmed down significantly as many people left the island, and we went back to our previous pattern of chilling, until it was time to go back to Bangkok and work…

*Darwin Award- recognition given to someone who actively participates in removing himself or herself from the world’s gene pool by dying or otherwise losing the capacity to reproduce.

Happy Loi Krathong!

It's hard to believe I've been experienced two consecutive Loi Krathong holidays in Thailand. That's two times more than I ever expected to pay homage to a water goddess in my life =) It just so happens that this holiday usually falls in November, due to the fact that it must correspond with the full moon in the twelfth month of the Thai lunar calendar, which brings to mind other similarities to American Thanksgiving (which, by the way, this year I spent eating roast CHICKEN at an ENGLISH pub, haha). Loi Krathong is a day of thankfulness and time spent with loved ones (many Thais who live in Bangkok go back to their hometowns in the provinces to be with their families on this day). It is one of the most beautiful festivals I've ever seen in my life. The Thais construct small rafts (krathong) out of bamboo stems, banana leaves, flowers, candles and incense to float on any available body of water to apologize to and thank Phra Mae Khongkha (the goddess of water in the Hindu tradition), and to ask her for good luck. (I like the idea of apologizing and think this is something that should generally be kept in mind for our Thanksgiving too). It is also an honor to the Buddha.

On my first Loi Krathong last year, I purposely stayed in Thailand long enough that I would be able to witness the festival in Chiang Mai. The city in the north is unique in that in addition to loi-ing krathongs, they have a tradition of "floating lanterns" (khom loi). They really go all out. There are parades with intricate floats of flowers and electric lights (every float must be followed by another vehicle carrying a generator). There are Noppamas contests- a beauty pageant to dress as Noppamas, the beautiful consort of a king long-past who floated the first krathong and inspired the king to declare the holiday. There are fireworks of all sorts going off at all hours for the entire week prior to the holiday (including loud bangs at 3am when you're trying to sleep and mid-afternoon when you're walking down the street and children launch small firecrackers at your feet to scare you). Finally, on November 4, I went with friends to dine at a restaurant on the river, which was the perfect place to gaze in wonder at the thousands of orbs of light floating in the river and sky, making the swirling, flowing patterns seem like mirror images gliding across the twin shining surfaces. We finished dinner and went down to the river to launch the krathong that we had purchased, made a customary wish, and watched as our rafts floated away, hoping they would not capsize within our view so that our wishes would be preserved. Later we tracked down a khom loi and, standing and holding on as a group, released it into the night sky to join its twinkling would-be star sisters.

This year, I may have gained even more merit by making my own krathong and ensuring it was made of mostly natural materials. A Canadian teacher and our Thai events coordinator teamed up for an arts and crafts Social Club, where students were provided all the materials for making krathong. Many of our Thai students were old pros and quickly designed beautiful rafts with many tiers of banana leaves folded into origami-esque shapes. They were more than happy to then help our Japanese students, and myself =) I couldn't do the folding fast enough so one woman passed me banana leaves she had already creased and I pinned them to the bamboo stem in a pattern that resembled a forest king's crown. I added purple orchids and a marigold, along with a candle and three sticks of incense. We then went to Lumpini, the Central Park of Bangkok, and together with thousands of other people, placed the krathong into the water. I did alright as far as my wish last year, so I'm hoping for even better luck this year. Happy Loi Krathong =D

Bangkok is...

view from my first apartment

I know it may seem as if I have disappeared into Thailand... in fact, the Big Mango (Bangkok) does have a certain absorbant effect (this is actually pretty necessary during the rainy season to minimize flooding). I feel like I've been on a moving sidewalk (or possibly one of the escalators I ride everyday)... not really rushing or speeding, but also not stopping. I've been here two months and I still feel like I'm in the process of settling in. One of the lessons I teach is "What's it like?" in which I ask students, "What's Bangkok like?" I think the students' answers may provide some insight into my experience here thus far.

"Bangkok is traffic jam." -Not grammatically correct perhaps, but telling nonetheless. This city of around 10 million people is unbelievably busy. It is difficult to walk down the uneven sidewalk due to both the sheer number of people and the mass of street stalls piled on top of each other that they stop to shop at. Traffic really is horrible, so I stick to the Skytrain and motorbike taxis (By now, I've become a pro at riding side-sadle in a skirt. I even rode with another passenger recently for the first time- only for a short distance!)

"Bangkok is hot." -The weather here ranges usually ranges from hot to inferno. Now that the rainy season has tapered off into "winter" the climate has become milder, though by no means could it be described as cool. Breezes are a blessing that merits much appreciation, and I have ducked into a convenience store on more than one occassion just to get some relief (7-11 always feels like a refridgerator). Unfortunately the combination of heat, humidity, and pollution is not my preferred consistency of air. Funky smells are preserved and waft out of unexpected places as I pass by, and mold grows rapidly in my bathroom and kitchen. At least I never have to question the temperature of the pool at my condo- I can just jump right in, being assured of the refreshing effect of the water.

Giant photo of a past king in the mall

"Bangkok is modern." -I work in the heart of downtown, on the 16th floor of Siam Tower, which has a 360 degree view of the city. Our language school is surrounded by no less than 5 multi-story malls. I hop off the Skytrain and walk right through one of them to get to the school. The school I worked at before my transfer was actually inside a mall! My new apartment is a condo with a pool, internet, and entertainment system. I really love my comfortable little oasis in the midst of all the chaos.

There seems to be something for everyone in this city, especially in the way of nighttime entertainment. I can add to my checklist salsa-dancing at a 5-star hotel, wine-tasting at a restaurant with it's own private lake in the middle of the city, drinking tea under a tent in a garden at a Middle Eastern spa, various rooftop pool parties, company Halloween party at an amusement park, several hi-so parties sponsored by different liquor companies, and eating at countless restaurants with mind-blowing menus (new favorite cuisine: Burmese). Many of these things were free or cheap as well!

"Bangkok is convenient." -Any need or want can be easily fulfilled here in Bangkok. There is street food available practically 24 hours a day, there is a 7-11 every few blocks, grocery and superstores compete for the lowest prices, the Skytrain and subway manage to cover most of the city with buses, taxis, and motorbikes making up for the in-between, pirated DVDs are sold on every corner, international restaurants can be found everywhere, including McDonald's, which delivers (!?), public or private transport can take you out of the city to beaches or forests within a few hours, English-speakers are abundant in certain areas, and the airport is close and even connected to downtown by another line of the Skytrain! The only danger here is becoming spoiled by the instant-gratification, or if you are foreigner, sometimes being treated like a D-list celebrity (friends and I were put on the red carpet at a Grey Goose event). 

Restrictions on the subway

"Bangkok is confusing." -The second day I was in the city, I went to a salon in the mall I first worked in. I explained that I wanted my hair black, even pointed to a black swatch, and somehow it turned out blond! That was a low moment for me, because I had no one I could call in that moment (seriously, how have I become so paranoid about my hair?), but it was easily changed back. Another night, I was in the car with some Thai women from work, but the driver was not used to going downtown. We missed our turn and it took us an hour to do a loop, owing to so much traffic. We later joked that we had actually driven out of the city to the beach that night. 

"Bangkok is nice." -I enjoy my students. They are respectful and fun and I enjoy spending time with them. The challenge will be to get to know them better, because the school functions like a language machine- input English, test, send down the line. They really do receive quality instruction, so I am happy about that, but I would like to see the same students more frequently. While this is not "traditional" teaching, it has already helped me realize that I'm really looking forward to future opportunities when I can truly commune with students. The other teachers here immediately merged me into their family, no questions asked. They are extremely friendly and interesting people who I enjoy spending time with. There are even two other teachers from Wisconsin! I am hoping that having friends around will make not being able to be home for the holidays more bearable.I'm quite happy with my home away from home!

Back to Bangkok + trip to Khao Yai National Park

I had a very interesting first week getting settled in here. I had been told to be here by Sept 4 in order to start training on Sept 6, so Monday morning I was all prepared to go. After a long commute on foot, subway and skytrain (made longer by getting turned around frequently), I arrived at the head office. As it turns out, my orientation was little more than a powerpoint presentation, and then they sent me home because the director of my branch was not able to come meet me as planned. "Oh and we don't have anything for you for Tuesday so just go in to your center on Wednesday."

Another day of unpacking and then I did it all over again to reach my center. I met the manager and observed some classes, after which I was again told there was no training for me to do... until the following Monday! The other news that was dropped on me was that I would actually be working at a different center for the first month! That center was short one teacher so I would be helping out there until they could bring in a replacement in October. The only good things about this was that it was closer to the apartment I had been put in (which otherwise was a very random location) and that I had met the teachers there on Tuesday just because I happened to stop by. Needless to say I felt quite frustrated on my ride home that day. I decided that to reduce boredom and anxiety, and also because it would probably be my last chance to get out of the city for awhile, I decided to go to Khao Yai National Park.

The public bus to get there took only just over two hours (a time period I now consider short for transportation). My guest house sent a shuttle to pick me up at the bus station- a deal I got for purchasing a trek. I settled in and went to sleep very early, owing to the last remnants of jet-lag and the fact that I needed to be up early the next morning. At 7am I was ready to go, jumped in the truck with a few other trekkers, laced up our leech socks (a necessary precaution during the rainy season), and we were off. Our guide had grown up in the town near Khao Yai and knew exactly where to look for animals. As we wound through the dense forest and attempted to avoid slipping in the mud (fail!), we came across spiders, scorpions, and giant millipedes. We almost ran right into a venomous green snake that was luckily pretty groggy, due to being noctural, and not to mention busy digesting the previous evening's meal. Suddenly, we heard a sound overhead like a fleet of helicopters rushing in- it was actually the beating of the powerful wings of one of the species of hornbill native to the park. Later we heard hooting ricochetting off the trees and followed it to find a family of gibbons using their long arms and legs to swim through the highest layer of the leafy canopy.

Even though we didn't see any elephants, the excursion was memorable, and best of all... just what I needed for relaxing. I befriended a family from Pennsylvania and exchanged travel stories and jokes with them the entire time. We swam under a massive waterfall, just out of sight of a sign that may or may not (but definitely did) say "No Swimming". I ran into a ballet of blue butterflies at the park where we ate lunch and filmed them as monkeys looked on in lust after our food. We walked down a paved path that ended in 23849890741 stairs (it was a lot ok!) to see another waterfall, and then had to hike all the way back up... taking frequent breaks, of course. I was exhausted by the end of the day but felt amazing- I had gotten to breathe fresh air, exercise in multiple ways (hiking, swimming, climbing trees and... does involuntary mud-sliding count?) and have good conversation with real live human beings for practically the first time since I had landed (that's what I get for not understanding Thai yet). AND my leech removing skills (grabbing them, rolling into a ball and flicking them away) apparently reached a professional level- I was one of the only trekkers who didn't get bit! More getaways necessary- pronto!